Large Patch & Take-All Root Rot: Warm Season Grasses Patch Lawn Diseases

Summertime is for baseball games, playing in the park, taking bike rides and enjoying picnics with friends and families. It’s also the time for patch lawn diseases to become more noticeable in yards.

The patch diseases that can affect warm season grasses such as Bermuda, St. Augustine, Centipede and Zoysia, and affect much of the South and South East lawns include: Large Patch and Take-all Root Rot. These lawn diseases are present in the United States where weather is hot and humid. Although it may be too late to prevent these lawn diseases, there is still time to help your lawn recover from the effect of Large Patch and Take-all Root Rot.

Large Patch Lawn Disease

The prime conditions for Large Patch to occur on warm season grasses include: Zoysia, Centipede, St. Augustine, and Bermuda when the weather turns cool and wet in late summer and into fall. Large Patch, also sometimes referred to as Brown Patch, is active from the late summer through the following spring when grasses are growing slow and preparing to go dormant for the winter. The symptoms go unnoticed until the following spring when lawns start coming out of dormancy.

Large Patch disease favors soil temperatures of about 70˚ and during extended periods of overcast and rain. At first, the grass blades will turn reddish-brown and large patches will begin to develop that turn a yellow-brown color. When the disease is most active, the outer edge of the patch may have a noticeable red or orange color.

Large Patch in Alabama
Damage by Large Patch can last a long time. Infection occurs when the turf is growing slowly, such as when it is going into dormancy in the fall, during cooler temperatures during the winter or during spring green up. Large Patch is not active when temperatures exceed 86°F. Often turf will recover during the summer, but the recovery time can take several weeks. This is a disease that can be controlled with properly timed applications of a fungicide labelled to control Large Patch. Two applications in the fall and one application in the spring can offer effective large patch control.

Take-All Root Rot Lawn Disease

Take-all Root Rot will often cause root decline in most warm-season turfgrasses. In the past, this disease had several names; Bermuda grass decline, Centipede grass decline and St. Augustine grass decline. It is the number one disease that affects St. Augustine grass. Like Large Patch, it is more common in wet areas with either sandy soils or hard, compacted soils.

The patches take on either an irregular or regular circular shape. Symptoms start as grass blades tuning light green to yellow. Stolons often turn black and begin to rot. These symptoms can be confused with other problems, such as plant parasitic nematodes. If the disease is not controlled or if corrective cultural practices are not put into play, the blighted areas will remain and other unwanted grassy weeds or broadleaf weeds will move into the areas.

Treatment for Warm Season Grass Lawn Diseases

Both diseases can be helped with 2 disease control applications, spaced a month apart, applied in the fall when soil temperatures drop below 65°F. Following good cultural practices, including a core aeration in the summer, will help the turf to recover. If you suspect your lawn has one of these patch diseases, contact your neighborhood lawn care professional at Spring-Green.

Has Spring Finally Sprung? Tips For Your Lawn This Spring Season!

spring season lawn tips

Spring has taken its sweet time to arrive for most of the U.S. If you live in the more northern states like Minnesota, Wisconsin or Michigan, you may be thinking that spring may never arrive since these areas still have snow. Receiving some snow at this time of year is not uncommon for these folks.

Even the lawns in the warmer parts of the U.S. are greening up at a much slower rate than normal. Warm season turfgrasses such as Bermuda or Zoysia, often turn brown during the winter months and don’t begin to start growing until temperatures are consistently above 70 degrees. There have been warm days, but not enough in a row to get these grasses to start growing again.

Tips to Prepare Your Lawn For Spring

Except for the lawns in the great white north, there are still plenty of things that you can do for your lawn and landscape to get a jump start on the year. The first thing to do is to take a walk around your lawn and look for any areas where the grass may be matted down.

This can be the result of foot traffic across the lawn, excessive levels of snow or even some snow mold that may have developed in the late winter of early spring. For the most part, lightly raking the area to fluff up the grass is all that is necessary. Be sure to wait until the lawn has dried out some before raking. Raking wet turf could result in pulling out the new growth.

You can also check your lawn mower, power equipment, and gardening tools in case they need to be repaired or replaced.

Should I Core Aerate My Lawn This Spring?

Core aerating your lawn in the spring is a good thing to do, but the timing is important. For warm season areas, it is best to wait until the turf has begun to turn green. The roots grow best when temperatures are between 80˚ to 95˚ F. The roots of warm season grasses are growing the most in the spring when soil temperatures are between 75˚ to 85˚ F.

For cool season grasses, such as Perennial Ryegrass and Bluegrass, roots grow the best when temperatures are between 60 to 75˚ F and roots grow best when soil temperatures are between 50 to 65˚ F. Core aeration for cool season grasses can be performed on the lawn now, but it is best to wait a couple more weeks before aerating warm season grasses.

Most lawns don’t need to be seeded in the spring. Even a thinning lawn will improve dramatically over the next couple of months. Also, if a lawn is seeded in the spring, it will be difficult if not impossible to control annual grassy weeds like crabgrass or to control germinating broadleaf weeds like dandelions.

Spring fertilization is also important to get your lawn off to a good start and “wake up” from dormancy. Contact your local neighborhood lawn care professional at Spring-Green to schedule your important spring fertilization treatment for a green, healthy turf this season.  Be sure to learn more about our additional services, such as core aeration, that we have to offer to help you enjoy your lawn and landscape this spring!

Thicken Your Lawn: It’s Time For Overseeding!


Overseeding, sometimes called reseeding, is the process of distributing grass seed over an existing lawn. According to information provided by Pennington Seed, there are two primary reasons for seeding existing turf in this manner. First, to either rejuvenate a patchy or thinning lawn or to prevent one. Many grass types will thin out as part of their natural maturing process. Your turf may also develop thinning or bare spots due to the stresses of heavy traffic as well as certain diseases or pests. Simply put, if your lawn is receding, consider reseeding.

Purpose of Overseeding a Lawn

Lawn care professionals will frequently use overseeding as a preventative measure. Instead of waiting for the thin areas or bare spots to appear, they will reseed the lawn so that the new grass plants appear before the weak areas are able to develop. Rather than fixing a poor-looking lawn, this proactive approach keeps the turf looking full, green, and healthy.

The second reason for overseeding is to bring up color when warm season grasses go dormant in winter. This is done by seeding the warm season lawn with a cool season grass seed mix that will produce color during those months when the warm season grasses are dormant. It may seem odd to plant cool season grass seed on a warm season lawn but the very conditions that cause the warm season grass to go dormant—milder daytime conditions and cooler nighttime temperatures—will allow the cool season grass to thrive, if only temporarily. The desired result is year-round green color.

How and When to Reseed

So far we’ve looked at what overseeding is and why to do it. Now let’s address when and how. Cool season grasses of the northern regions enter a period of vigorous growth during late summer and early fall. The soil is still warm enough for the seed to germinate and the cooler temperatures, along with moist conditions, stimulate growth. This is the best time to overseed a northern lawn, with spring being the second best.

By comparison, warm season grasses experience their active growth beginning in late spring, which makes that the better time to overseed a thinning lawn or to prevent one. If winter color in a southern lawn is the goal, fall is the time—just as the existing warm season grass is beginning to turn brown and go dormant.

Without proper preparation and execution, one can spend a great deal of money on overseeding and not see great results. In order for grass seed to become grass plants, it must have an opportunity to germinate and thrive. Simply distributing seed, even good seed, over a lawn may not be good enough, especially if the soil is compacted, there is an excessive thatch layer, or both.

Improve Your Lawn With Core Aeration

Grass seed that cannot get into the soil and receive the necessary moisture and nutrients has a good chance of becoming bird food. Spring-Green’s core aeration service disrupts the surface of the lawn and the soil beneath it by extracting plugs of soil and plant material and then depositing them on the lawn’s surface. This process helps loosen compacted soil and break down thatch, allowing water, nutrients and grass seed to penetrate the soil. For this reason, we recommend scheduling core aeration and overseeding in combination.

Proper seed selection is also important. Use a quality seed mix that is well-matched to your growth region as well as to your overseeding objective. One objective may be to thicken an existing lawn without substantially altering the grass type. Another is to augment the turf by introducing additional grass types to it, such as the introduction of cool season grass seed to a warm season lawn in order to enhance winter color.

Watering, feeding, and weed control practices during the weeks following core aeration and overseeding may also vary according to the specific needs of your lawn. Contact your neighborhood lawn care professional at Spring-Green to obtain more information, ask questions, or schedule this service.

DIY Core Aeration – Is Aerating Your Lawn Worth It?

core aeration

Of all the beneficial things you could do to ensure a healthy, beautiful lawn, core aeration is second only to fertilization. By disrupting the surface of the lawn and the soil beneath it, core aeration allows more air, water, and nutrients to reach the turf’s root zone. This in turn encourages better lawn root development below the surface and—you guessed it—healthier, thicker, greener plant growth above. Compacted soils are loosened, restrictive layers of surface-level thatch are broken, and your turf uses these improvements to its natural advantage, growing stronger and healthier as the surface repairs itself.

Virtually all U.S. regions and all common turfgrasses can benefit from regular aeration. What differs somewhat is the timing. According to information provided by Bayer Advanced, the best time to aerate a lawn is prior to a period of vigorous growth, during which the lawn can best recover from the disruption intentionally created by the aeration process. For cool season grasses, that time is late summer into early fall, making sure to allow at least a month of growing time before the threat of frost sets in. For warm season grassses, late spring to early summer is your best bet.

DIY (Do It Yourself) Core Aeration

Is core aeration worth it for your lawn? Yes, absolutely! Is it worth doing it yourself? Let’s weigh the options of do-it-yourself (DIY) aeration versus having the work done by a professional lawn care service.

No matter who does it, the work is performed using a specialized core aeration machine. This is a powerful and somewhat heavy motorized device that drives hollow tines several inches into the ground, extracts plugs of soil and plant material, and then deposits them on the surface as it moves forward. The desired result is a visible pattern of holes in the ground and plugs laying on the turf. Over time, the holes will be filled in with loosened soil, new roots, and grass plants, while the plugs break down and assist in the decomposition of the thatch layer that builds up on the soil surface.

This would be a piece of cake if the machine did all the work and the operator merely had to throw a switch on or off, but such is not the case. The machine operator controls where the machine goes, taking special care to avoid damage to irrigation heads, pavement features, flower beds, children’s toys, and other common obstacles. The operator must also determine whether soil conditions are favorable before commencing the operation. The key concern here is moisture. Soggy soil will clog the tines whereas overly dry soil will be difficult at best to penetrate. Aerating during a prolonged period of drought or excessive heat may do more harm than good.

The application of additional grass seed to an existing lawn, sometimes called overseeding or reseeding, is best done immediately following core aeration of a lawn. Fertilizer applications are also more effective at this time. This is because the openings caused by the aeration process make it easier for the new seed and/or nutrients to penetrate the soil. Obviously the individual applying these materials must know what to apply and at what rate.

Better To Do It Yourself or Hire a Professional?

So which provides the better value for core aeration, DIY or using a professional lawn care service? Consider the following.

● Who will transport the core aeration machine to and from your property?
● Who will determine whether conditions are favorable to aerate your lawn?
● Who will ensure the safe and effective operation of the core aeration machine?
● Who will be responsible for any damage incurred to properly identified obstacles?
● If applicable. who will be responsible for properly overseeding/reseeding your lawn?
● If applicable. who will be responsible for properly fertilizing the lawn after aeration is completed?

When properly performed, under favorable conditions and at the appropriate time, core aeration will most assuredly benefit your lawn, whether you do it yourself or bring in a lawn care professional. With that said, if you have questions or concerns about core aeration or any aspect of caring for your lawn, please do not hesitate to contact your neighborhood lawn care professional at Spring-Green. We have a wealth of professional lawn care experience to share with you.

Rejuvenate Your Lawn with Core Aeration and Reseeding

core aeration and reseeding

For cool-season turfgrass, fall is a time of renewal and recovery from the stresses of summer heat. As the temperatures start to moderate and rainfall increases, the turf plants will start growing new roots and new plants to replace those that were damaged or even killed during the summer. Spring may be the time when other landscape plants start to grow, but fall is the time of regrowth for cool-season turfgrasses with core aeration.

Cool season turfgrasses like Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, fine fescue and tall fescue have varying degrees of tolerance to heat and drought:


Heat ToleranceDrought Tolerance
Fine FescueGoodVery Good
Kentucky BluegrassGood to PoorGood
Perennial RyegrassGoodGood
Tall FescueVery GoodVery Good


These ratings are based on an average summer.  If conditions are extreme, the turf will suffer.  For example, roots of Kentucky bluegrass will start to die when soil temperature in the top inch of soil will start to die. All these grasses can survive about 28 days without water, but they all will thin out if a drought lasts much longer than 28 days.

Fall Core Aeration

One constant in lawn care is that all lawns will benefit from an annual core aeration. Core aeration is performed by a machine that travels across the lawn and has a series of tines built in that puncture the soil and remove 2 to 3-inch-long plugs or cores of soil and thatch and deposits the them back on the lawn’s surface. This process will open the lawn to provide more air, water and nutrients into the turf root zone. Strengthening the roots is key to having a healthy lawn.

The best time to do core aeration on a a cool-season lawn is in the fall, from mid-August through mid-December. A lawn can also go through aeration in the spring, but the optimum time is in the fall. The roots of cool season turf grow best when soil temperatures are in the range of 60 to 80 degrees. Even if the lawn is aerated before the soil temperatures drop to these favorable levels, the aerification process will be completed to help promote better root growth when the temperatures drop.

Fall Lawn Reseeding

A great time for lawn reseeding is shortly after it has been core has gone through aeration. Grass seed needs to come in contact with soil and receive adequate moisture to remain viable once the germination process begins. A good portion of the seed will end up in the core holes, which ends up being a great place for the seed to germinate. The soil in the core holes will be cooler and remain moist and the seed will have a much better chance of germinating. Soil temperatures for seed germination for the different cool season grasses are:


Kentucky Bluegrass59 to 86°
Fine Fescue59 to 77°
Perennial Ryegrass68 to 86°
Tall Fescue68 to 86°


Even if your area did not have to endure any extreme heat or drought this past summer, having the lawn aerated and reseeded will help ensure an even better lawn next year. One other important part of a fall lawn overseeding program, it needs to be completed early enough for the seed to germinate and sufficiently grow before inclement weather sets in for the winter. In the colder parts of the cool-season areas, try to have the seeding completed by the end of September. If you are in the more southern part of the cool season areas, you have more time, but you should try to have it completed by end of October.

If you are interested in having your lawn core aerated and overseeded this fall, contact your neighborhood lawn care professional at Spring-Green and make arrangements to rejuvenate your lawn this fall.

Be Nice to Your Lawn and Have it Core Aerated

Lawns around our houses, businesses, churches, hospitals or lawns that are used for sporting events, playgrounds or parks are not natural systems. Therefore, they need to be maintained in order to grow and stay healthy. Lawns that are not properly maintained are thin and usually full of weeds (not just dandelions). By caring for your lawn and ensuring it is growing well, you are making a big difference environmentally such as:

  • Reducing pollution
  • Preventing floods
  • Providing oxygen

Your lawn is a GREAT thing.

The turfgrass varieties planted for lawns are great, but they are susceptible to more stresses than in their natural environment. Most of these turfgrasses are not native to North America, but were brought here from Europe, Africa or Asia. The soil preparation for the new grass, whether it is sod, seed or springs, is usually not that good. These grasses are expected to perform not under the best growing conditions. That is why they need fertilizer, pest control products and other mechanical processes to help them adapt to their environment.

One of the best things that can help any lawn is to core aerate it by using a machine called a core aerator. Nowadays, there are many styles of core aerators including walk-behind models, ones that are pulled by a small tractor and there are even ones that are a stand-on type. Most homeowners have their lawn care or maintenance company perform this work, but many hardware or rental stores carry small walk-behind models as well. Core aerators weigh several hundred pounds and a pick-up truck is the best way to transport them.

When a core aeration machine travels across a lawn, it removes small cores or plugs of soil and deposits them back on top of the ground. This opens up the lawn for more air, water and nutrients to penetrate into the root zone and allows for better root growth. Having a good root system is important for growing a healthy turf.  core aerated lawn

Besides providing better root growth, core aeration helps reduce thatch levels as well. Thatch is a layer of roots, rhizomes and other organic material that builds up at the soil line.  Thatch acts like a sponge and absorbs much of the water and nutrients applied to a lawn, which is where many of the roots will grow. A sponge will quickly dry out in the sun and so will a thatch layer. It is also a home for insects, diseases and weed seeds. Core aeration will help to mitigate these problems. The cores that remain on top of the lawn will slowly break down through normal mowing and watering. The microorganisms in the soil will intermingle with the thatch and begin to decompose it naturally. Thatch can take years to build up to detrimental levels, so one aeration will not be enough. It may be necessary to aerate twice a year – spring and fall.

The best time to core aerate a lawn is when the roots are actively growing. For warm-season grasses, the roots are most active after the lawn comes out of dormancy in the spring. Therefore, aerate in April through June. For cool-season grasses, the most root growth occurs in the fall so therefore the fall is an optimum time to aerate. Roots are active in the spring as well, so aerating in the spring can also be completed. A lawn can be aerated at any time of the year as long it is moist enough to allow the tines to enter the soil, however the lawn may not benefit as much if it is aerated when the roots are active.

Cool-season turfgrasses can benefit from annual overseeding. The best time to do this is in the late summer to early fall. Core aeration prior to overseeding provides a place for the seed to be in contact with the soil and allows for better germination. Just about every cool season turfgrass lawn will benefit from an annual overseeding.

Besides fertilizing, one of the best things you can do for your lawn is to core aerate it. It is the only process that physically changes the structure of your lawn. Be kind to your lawn and have it aerated.

Have questions about the maintenance for your lawn or want to get started with core aeration and oeverseeding for your lawn? Contact your neighborhood Spring-Green for more information.

5 Fall Gardening Chores You Shouldn’t Ignore!

fall gardening tip for homeowners

For much of the country, fall means the end to working outdoors for another year. There are always many tasks that have to be completed before the first snowflakes start to fall.

5 Gardening Chores to Accomplish this Fall:

  1. Pull Plants – Within the next couple of weeks, I will be pulling up my vegetable garden plants and all the flowering annuals that I put in this past spring. I will probably wait a little while before cutting back the perennial plants. As long as the sun continues to shine, those plants will continue to grow and develop into a stronger plant for next year. I like to cut back all my perennials after they have had a chance to harden off for the winter. This usually means that I wait until after the first frost before chopping plants back.
  2. Trim Overgrowth – Fall is also a good time to thin out overcrowded plants or move ones that have outgrown their site. If Powdery Mildew was a problem on some of your perennials, move them to a sunnier location. If you have Hostas in your gardens and they experienced sun scald from too much sun this summer, move them to a shadier place. I have a problem with slugs eating the leaves off of my Hostas, so I try to cut them back every fall to reduce the number that overwinter. I have been doing so for as long as I have been growing Hostas. It seems to keep them in check.
  3. Sprinkler Blow Out – If you have a sprinkler system and you haven’t had the water blown out of it yet, time is running out.
  4. Core and Dormant Seed – There is still time to core aerate your lawn this fall. If you were planning to overseed this fall, I suggest you wait until late November or early December and dormant seed your lawn. The seed will overwinter and germinate next spring once the ground warms up enough to germinate the seed. The one caveat to dormant seeding is that it usually isn’t a good idea to apply a crabgrass preventer next spring until the new seed germinates, which could be as late as early June.

core aerating

  1. Fertilize – A fall fertilization is also very helpful for your lawn. Roots and rhizome growth are most active in fall, so the plant will utilize the fertilizer very well. The fall application is the most important application of the year.

Follow along with these blog posts as there will be more things you can do as long as the weather cooperates. In the meantime, if you haven’t had your lawn aerated this fall or need to schedule a fall fertilization, contact your neighborhood lawn care professional at Spring-Green.

When Is The Best Time To Aerate Your Lawn?

beautiful home core aeration

The best time to aerate your lawn is based on 3 conditions:

  1. Type of grass in your lawn
  2. Weather conditions in your area
  3. Amount of moisture your lawn has received

Aeration can take place at any time of the year, but the best time is usually in the spring/early summer or fall. 

core aeration - what it looks like

The general recommendation is to core aerate when there is the most root growth. For warm-season grasses: Bermuda, St. Augustine, Centipede, Zoysia, it is in May and June when these grasses are coming out of dormancy. Cool-season grasses: bluegrass, ryegrass and the fescues, receive the most benefits when the lawn is aerated in the fall.

What would happen if you aerated a warm-season grass in the fall?

In most cases, nothing bad. The roots of the turfgrass will probably not grow any faster. But there is still the benefit of helping to reduce compaction. When a lawn is aerated, a certain amount of soil is lifted from the lawn and left back on the lawn.

As these cores are broken apart by mowing or melt into the lawn through rain fall or irrigation, the soil will intermingle with the current thatch layer and start feeding on it to naturally break it down.  The only concern would be if abnormally cold temperatures were to occur and the ground were to freeze. This may cause some roots to die that are close to the edge of the core holes.

spring-green tech core aerating a lawn

Fall may be the best time to aerate a cool-season lawn, but in some cases, aeration in spring and fall may also be recommended. If the thatch layer has been built up above a half of an inch over a period of time, spring and fall aeration may be the best choice. Many people like to seed after aeration, but we don’t recommend seeding a lawn in the spring, since we cannot apply a crabgrass preventer and the lawn will require more watering than it will in the fall.

The most important condition that can affect the quality of aerating a lawn is the amount of moisture that is in the soil. The lawn has to be moist for the tines to penetrate into the ground. Be sure to either wait until after a good rain fall or provide about a half inch of water to the lawn before trying to aerate it.

If you have not scheduled your lawn for a fall core aeration, especially if you are in the cool-season turf areas, contact your local Spring-Green office. It is one of the best things you can do to help ensure you have a healthy lawn.

Fairy Rings: Everything You Need To Know!

green grass

I subscribe to several university newsletters that are dedicated to lawns and landscapes. This year, Ohio State University changed the format of their monthly newsletter to short news flashes about many interesting topics.

The university still publishes their Buckeye Yard & Garden online newsletter, but I do enjoy reading all the brief articles on interesting weeds, insects, diseases and other oddities of nature.

They recently posted a news brief about one of my favorite diseases, Fairy Ring. I always like to learn something new about this annoying, but usually not serious, disease.

Ironically, a Spring-Green Franchise Owner called me today to ask why there seems to be more Fairy Rings this year.

Fairy Ring

Weather has a lot to do with the development of Fairy Ring and how noticeable it is in a home lawn. As the summer becomes drier and the turf begins to fade, the grass that has been infected with Fairy Ring stays greener for a longer period of time.

Fairy Rings can be found worldwide and there are multiple types of fungi involved in its creation. Their size can range from a circle less than a foot in diameter to 2,000 feet as seen in a ring in France that is more than 700 years old. The rings always seem to be growing larger every year. Rings are antagonistic to each other and if they ever do come together, their activity stops.

fairy ring

There are disease control materials that will suppress Fairy Rings, but they are often costly to apply and the results are inconsistent.

I find that core aeration helps reduce the incidence of Fairy Ring. In severe situations, a spring and fall aeration is beneficial. 

Fairy Ring – Expert Lawn Care Tips

Fairy Rings continue to grow larger every year, so eventually, it will grow out of your lawn and into your neighbor’s lawn. For more information on Spring-Green’s aeration services contact your local Spring-Green office today.

Avoid Doing This To Your Lawn…

brown lawn

In one of my recent training seminars, one of the Field Service Professionals, Jason who works in our Plainfield, IL office, sent me this picture of a lawn with a good deal of damage.

My first thought was that the homeowner applied too much fertilizer to the lawn using a drop spreader, but the more I looked at it, the more I started to second guess the cause of all of the browning.

The reason why I don’t think it is caused by fertilizer is that the browning is too consistent, although there are several areas that appear to be unharmed. I also wondered about the lines going through the damaged area, which is something you would not see if this was related to a misapplication of fertilizer.

I have not actually seen this site, but I am fairly sure the damage that is seen in this lawn is the direct result of being power raked too deeply. A power rake is a machine that has a series of tines on a shaft that spins at a very high velocity to “power rake” thatch dead grass from a lawn. If done properly, there is little damage or stress to the lawn.  Unfortunately, many times the user of a power rake machine sets the cutting depth too low and ends up causing damage to the lawn.  Since it is just supposed to skim across the top of the lawn, not rototill it.


Another concern with power raking is that the process can damage the crown of the plant. The crown is the growth point for the roots and the shots. As long as it is alive, the plant will recover from numerous stresses. The process of power raking will damage or even kill a good number of crowns.

When a lawn is power raked, it will pull up an abundance of grass blades, both alive and dead. That means there will be a good deal of raking to remove all the plant matter from the lawn. There are power rakes that have a grass collection system, similar to a leaf sweeper, to collect the grass that is pulled up. It may make it easier to use one of those, but the grass still has to be placed into bags or into a compost pile.

The alternative to power raking is core aeration. It is a much simpler process and will benefit your lawn a lot more than power raking will. Contact your local Spring-Green office to sign up for this important service.  Your lawn will be greener and more importantly healthier if you do.