Thicken Your Lawn: It’s Time For Overseeding!


Overseeding, sometimes called reseeding, is the process of distributing grass seed over an existing lawn. According to information provided by Pennington Seed, there are two primary reasons for seeding existing turf in this manner. First, to either rejuvenate a patchy or thinning lawn or to prevent one. Many grass types will thin out as part of their natural maturing process. Your turf may also develop thinning or bare spots due to the stresses of heavy traffic as well as certain diseases or pests. Simply put, if your lawn is receding, consider reseeding.

Purpose of Overseeding a Lawn

Lawn care professionals will frequently use overseeding as a preventative measure. Instead of waiting for the thin areas or bare spots to appear, they will reseed the lawn so that the new grass plants appear before the weak areas are able to develop. Rather than fixing a poor-looking lawn, this proactive approach keeps the turf looking full, green, and healthy.

The second reason for overseeding is to bring up color when warm season grasses go dormant in winter. This is done by seeding the warm season lawn with a cool season grass seed mix that will produce color during those months when the warm season grasses are dormant. It may seem odd to plant cool season grass seed on a warm season lawn but the very conditions that cause the warm season grass to go dormant—milder daytime conditions and cooler nighttime temperatures—will allow the cool season grass to thrive, if only temporarily. The desired result is year-round green color.

How and When to Reseed

So far we’ve looked at what overseeding is and why to do it. Now let’s address when and how. Cool season grasses of the northern regions enter a period of vigorous growth during late summer and early fall. The soil is still warm enough for the seed to germinate and the cooler temperatures, along with moist conditions, stimulate growth. This is the best time to overseed a northern lawn, with spring being the second best.

By comparison, warm season grasses experience their active growth beginning in late spring, which makes that the better time to overseed a thinning lawn or to prevent one. If winter color in a southern lawn is the goal, fall is the time—just as the existing warm season grass is beginning to turn brown and go dormant.

Without proper preparation and execution, one can spend a great deal of money on overseeding and not see great results. In order for grass seed to become grass plants, it must have an opportunity to germinate and thrive. Simply distributing seed, even good seed, over a lawn may not be good enough, especially if the soil is compacted, there is an excessive thatch layer, or both.

Improve Your Lawn With Core Aeration

Grass seed that cannot get into the soil and receive the necessary moisture and nutrients has a good chance of becoming bird food. Spring-Green’s core aeration service disrupts the surface of the lawn and the soil beneath it by extracting plugs of soil and plant material and then depositing them on the lawn’s surface. This process helps loosen compacted soil and break down thatch, allowing water, nutrients and grass seed to penetrate the soil. For this reason, we recommend scheduling core aeration and overseeding in combination.

Proper seed selection is also important. Use a quality seed mix that is well-matched to your growth region as well as to your overseeding objective. One objective may be to thicken an existing lawn without substantially altering the grass type. Another is to augment the turf by introducing additional grass types to it, such as the introduction of cool season grass seed to a warm season lawn in order to enhance winter color.

Watering, feeding, and weed control practices during the weeks following core aeration and overseeding may also vary according to the specific needs of your lawn. Contact your neighborhood lawn care professional at Spring-Green to obtain more information, ask questions, or schedule this service.

Rejuvenate Your Lawn with Core Aeration and Reseeding

core aeration and reseeding

For cool-season turfgrass, fall is a time of renewal and recovery from the stresses of summer heat. As the temperatures start to moderate and rainfall increases, the turf plants will start growing new roots and new plants to replace those that were damaged or even killed during the summer. Spring may be the time when other landscape plants start to grow, but fall is the time of regrowth for cool-season turfgrasses with core aeration.

Cool season turfgrasses like Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, fine fescue and tall fescue have varying degrees of tolerance to heat and drought:


Heat Tolerance Drought Tolerance
Fine Fescue Good Very Good
Kentucky Bluegrass Good to Poor Good
Perennial Ryegrass Good Good
Tall Fescue Very Good Very Good


These ratings are based on an average summer.  If conditions are extreme, the turf will suffer.  For example, roots of Kentucky bluegrass will start to die when soil temperature in the top inch of soil will start to die. All these grasses can survive about 28 days without water, but they all will thin out if a drought lasts much longer than 28 days.

Fall Core Aeration

One constant in lawn care is that all lawns will benefit from an annual core aeration. Core aeration is performed by a machine that travels across the lawn and has a series of tines built in that puncture the soil and remove 2 to 3-inch-long plugs or cores of soil and thatch and deposits the them back on the lawn’s surface. This process will open the lawn to provide more air, water and nutrients into the turf root zone. Strengthening the roots is key to having a healthy lawn.

The best time to do core aeration on a a cool-season lawn is in the fall, from mid-August through mid-December. A lawn can also go through aeration in the spring, but the optimum time is in the fall. The roots of cool season turf grow best when soil temperatures are in the range of 60 to 80 degrees. Even if the lawn is aerated before the soil temperatures drop to these favorable levels, the aerification process will be completed to help promote better root growth when the temperatures drop.

Fall Lawn Reseeding

A great time for lawn reseeding is shortly after it has been core has gone through aeration. Grass seed needs to come in contact with soil and receive adequate moisture to remain viable once the germination process begins. A good portion of the seed will end up in the core holes, which ends up being a great place for the seed to germinate. The soil in the core holes will be cooler and remain moist and the seed will have a much better chance of germinating. Soil temperatures for seed germination for the different cool season grasses are:


Kentucky Bluegrass 59 to 86°
Fine Fescue 59 to 77°
Perennial Ryegrass 68 to 86°
Tall Fescue 68 to 86°


Even if your area did not have to endure any extreme heat or drought this past summer, having the lawn aerated and reseeded will help ensure an even better lawn next year. One other important part of a fall lawn overseeding program, it needs to be completed early enough for the seed to germinate and sufficiently grow before inclement weather sets in for the winter. In the colder parts of the cool-season areas, try to have the seeding completed by the end of September. If you are in the more southern part of the cool season areas, you have more time, but you should try to have it completed by end of October.

If you are interested in having your lawn core aerated and overseeded this fall, contact your neighborhood lawn care professional at Spring-Green and make arrangements to rejuvenate your lawn this fall.

Should You Seed or Sod Your Lawn

seed or sod

“Should I use seed or sod to fix the bare areas in my lawn?”

“Which method provides a better lawn – seed or sod?”

“I removed an old above the ground pool from my back yard.  Should I seed it or sod it?”

These are all common questions we receive from customers when they ask about fixing areas of their lawn that may have been damaged by insect or disease activity, landscaping changes or even about installing a new lawn. The answer to these questions require asking additional questions to determine what method works best for your lawn, where you live, your ability to water and the current weather conditions in your part of the country.

Where you live and the type of grass you want to grow, plays a major part in determining which method you choose. If your lawn has one of the warm season grasses like St. Augustine, centipede, Bermuda or Zoysia, seeding is not the best option to repair small areas. First, seed availability is limited and the germination success rate is very low. In most cases, any bare areas smaller than a dinner plate will fill in on their own from the grass that is already growing in the lawn.

Repairing larger areas are more easily repaired by placing sod in the area. Purchase sod that is of the same variety of grass that is growing in your lawn. If you are not sure, cut out a small sample of the turf and take it to your local garden center and they will be able to identify it for you. The best time of year to install new sod in warm season turf areas is late spring to early summer.

Those of you that live in the northern parts of the US and grow cool-season turfgrasses like Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, fine fescue or turf-type tall fescue, you can either seed or sod the areas that require repair. There are some decisions you have to make to determine which method is better for your lawn.

4 questions you need to answer:

  • What type of grass is growing in your lawn? Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass are probably the most popular type of grass growing in the northern parts of the US. Turf-type tall fescue is the most common cool-season grass growing in the Transition Zone. Fine fescue is the preferred species for shady areas. For the most part, all the grasses will blend together, although fine fescue has a gray-green color and may appear out of place in a bluegrass/perennial ryegrass lawn.
  • Are you repairing small sections of a lawn or larger, more significant areas? Small spots are better repaired with seed, while larger areas, bigger than one square yard, may be better served by using sod.
  • Do you have the ability to water on a regular basis? Both seed and sod need to be watered, but at least daily watering of new seed is critical to its survival, more if it is warm and the areas dry out quickly. Once new seed germinates, it has a tiny little root that needs water, which may mean watering two or three times a day. All the cool season grasses generally germinate within 2 weeks, but Kentucky bluegrass can take 4 or more weeks to germinate. It then needs to be kept moist for another 2 to 3 weeks after it has germinated and for a longer time if it is hot.
  • Have you ever replaced sod or prepared the soil for seeding?  There is a lot more to the process than just throwing some seed out or rolling out a piece of sod across the dead spot. There are numerous YouTube videos that go into detail on how to perform these procedures.  Take the time to look at those before you start. You may have to search a little bit, but you should end up with a fairly good idea of how to re-seed or re-sod your lawn.

If the job is more than you can handle, it may be better to contract with a local landscape company, especially if you plan to sod larger sections of your lawn. Seeding may seem like an easier task, but it also may be something you want a professional to do.

Contact your local Spring-Green professional to learn about our core aeration and overseeding services.

Active Grubs in December in Green Bay, WI!

Active Grubs

Whether it is due to global warming, El Niño or it is just one of those years when it stays “warm into December,” I received a picture of a lawn with what looks like active grubs in it from the Spring-Green office in Green Bay, WI.  Rick Byers, Assistant Manager for the office sent these pictures in with the heading “December 8 and grubs still active.” They may be present, but I am not sure how much feeding they are doing.

Many grubs dig deeper into the soil when the temperature drops below 50 degrees F. Japanese beetles start to wiggle deeper into the soil when the temperature drops below 59 degrees F. If temperatures stay warm, grub damage may occur.

As you can see from the picture, the bigger problem with the lawn is the damage caused by either raccoon’s, skunks or opossums digging up the lawn looking for a tasty meal.  The grubs may be slowing down and not eating very much, but that just makes it easier for those critters to grab a meal.

The grubs may be present, but applying a control product may not be very effective as the grubs have to ingest the product in order to be controlled. The bigger challenge for the home owner will be repairing their lawn. The best thing to do is push down as much of the turf that was dug up and dormant seed the lawn. Even if nothing were to be done, the lawn would eventually recover on its own. Reseeding should help the lawn look better and faster in the spring.

Insects are amazing creatures and they have the ability to adapt to a wide range of environmental conditions. There are over a million species of insects on earth, but fortunately for the average home lawn, there are only about 3 or 4 different insects that have the potential to do serious damage. If populations are high enough, even one species of insect can cause extensive damage. It is one of the many battles that we in lawn care fight every year.

If your lawn has active grubs that are causing your lawn problems, contact your local Spring-Green professional today!

Tall Fescue Lawn Care

spring lawn care tips

A reader sent in this latest question about his Tall Fescue grass not looking its best. Harold gives him some great advice on how to care for Tall Fescue, a common transition zone grass type.

“Harold, I have a tall fescue grass in southern California, and cannot get it to stay a deep green. I have a few dead spots that even reseeding won’t cure, and my entire lawn is starting to turn a light brown. Any suggestions on getting my lawn normal? I water once a day for 4 min, also. Thanks!”

Dear reader,

Thank you for sending in your question. First of all, I have the deepest sympathy for anyone trying to grow grass or any other plant for that matter during the long drought California is enduring. Of course it is hard to say exactly what is happening with your lawn without actually seeing it, but I can provide you with some basic steps to follow.

First Step: Soil Test

Based on your comment, the first suggestion I have is to have your soil tested to determine if the pH is at the proper level. It should be between 6.5 and 7.0. Having the soil tested is always a good starting point when developing a treatment plan for your Tall Fescue grass.

Second Step: Change How You Water

The second thing I recommend is to change your watering schedule to 30 minutes a week, but provide the water all at the same time. The turf in your lawn, Tall Fescue, is a drought tolerant grass, but it can still thin out if it does not receive enough water. By watering once a day, you are only penetrating the top inch of soil, which causes the roots to grow closer to the service. Tall Fescue is a deep rooted turf, but if the water is only at the surface, that is where the roots will grow instead of going deep to look for more water. Your goal should be to supply 1 inch of water per week to your turf. To properly care for Tall Fescue, it’s much better to water for a longer time and less frequently.

Third Step: Core Aeration

The third thing I suggest is to core aerate your lawn by using a machine called a core aerator. These are available to rent at many hardware stores, rental agencies and home improvement centers. You can also employ a certified professional to do the service for you. A core aerator, as it is runs across your turf, will take out cores of soil and thatch and leave them back on the top of the lawn. This will open up your lawn to allow more air, water and nutrients to reach the root zone. The cores that remain on the lawn will break down with normal irrigation and melt back into the lawn. The microorganisms in the soil will work to break down the thatch. Your lawn does need to be moist to allow the core aerator tines to penetrate into the soil, so try to schedule this for a day after you water or, hopefully, after it rains.

Fourth Step: Reseed

Reseeding your turf after it is core aerated is a very good practice. Tall Fescue has a “bunch-type” growth habit and does not spread out to cover bare areas quickly. The core aeration holes provide a great place for the seed to germinate. You should spread 5 to 6 pounds of good quality Tall Fescue seed per 1,000 sq. ft. I suggest seeding this time of year as traditionally winter is a wetter time for California. I also suggest you reseed every year in the fall to early winter.

Fertilizing Your Lawn

Once you’ve received the results from your soil test, it will be much easier to determine the amount of fertilizer your lawn needs. Tall Fescue does not require an abundance of nitrogen to stay green. Generally, 2 to 3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. per year is what Tall Fescue requires. The most nitrogen should be applied in the fall and less in the summer. The soil test will provide recommendations on the amount of Phosphorus and Potassium your turf will require.

I am confident that by following these basic steps, your lawn will respond and look better. If your lawn has Tall Fescue turf that needs some TLC, contact your local Spring-Green professional today!

When You Should Core Aerate and Reseed Your Lawn

soil plugs from core aeration

What Is Core Aeration?

You may have heard about core aeration from a local lawn care company or have read about the procedure in gardening publications. Simply put, core aeration is a process where a machine travels across a lawn or turfgrass area and removes and then deposits plugs of soil and thatch back onto the lawn. This process opens up the lawn to provide more air, water, and nutrients to the root system of the turf. This process will help to produce a healthier lawn. It is recommended that you leave the plugs of soil on the lawn so the soil that has been brought up will melt back into the lawn to help reduce thatch – the microorganisms in the soil will feed on the thatch and break it down. Now that we know what it is, when is the best time to core aerate your lawn?

When to Core Aerate Cool Season Grasses

The process works best when the root system of the plant is actively growing. For cool season grasses, the most root growth occurs in the fall, followed by the spring. Most core aeration for cool-season grasses takes place in the fall.

Spring-Green employee core aerating a lawn

When to Core Aerate Warm Season Grasses

For warm-season grasses, the best time to core aerate is in the early summer because the roots for these plants are most active during this time of year. Aerating warm season grasses in the fall will not provide the benefits of improving root growth since the turf is beginning to enter a dormant period and growth will stop.

After Aerating, Reseed the Lawn

Reseeding a lawn after it has been core aerated is advantageous for cool season grasses, but seeding does not perform as well for warm season grasses. The main reason for this is that the seed is difficult and can take a long time to germinate. For a seed to germinate, it needs to be kept moist during the germination process. If the roots dry out before the seed has been able to send the root into the soil, it will die. Most warm-season grasses’ reproductive systems (called stolons) grow very quickly and will fill in thin and bare areas quickly, so seeding is not as much of a concern.

Re-sodding Is Another Option

If there are larger areas that have died out due to winter kill or past insect or disease damage, placing new pieces of sod of the same turfgrass that is growing in the lawn will help to fill in these areas. The easiest way to do this is to unroll the piece of sod, and then use a spade to make vertical cuts around the perimeter of the sod. After doing so, remove the sod and, using the spade, make horizontal cuts at about an inch below grade. Remove the dead grass and some of the soil and place the new sod in the prepared area. Keep it watered and it will soon fill in the surrounding areas.

Contact your local Spring-Green professional to schedule a core aeration today and start to enjoy the benefits of a healthy lawn.

3 Ways to Get Rid of Creeping Bentgrass in Your Lawn

Have creeping bentgrass in your yard? Read how Harold Enger, our lawn care expert, tells a reader the three best ways to eliminate it.

“I have question about creeping bent grass. It’s all over my lawn in splotches. I watched your video about it but you didn’t mention what I could use to get rid of it. Help! I just want a gorgeous lawn and am at a loss with it. Thanks in advance.”

Thank you for sending in your question. Controlling bentgrass can be a daunting task. My recommendations are based on the assumption that your lawn is composed mostly of bluegrass, ryegrass or turf type tall fescue. If you have other varieties of grass in your lawn, please let me know and I can provide you with recommendations to use for those grasses.

Dealing With Bentgrass – Expert Lawn Care Advice

There are three ways you can get rid of creeping bentgrass:

First method is to spray the individual spots with a non-selective herbicide like Round-Up.

This will kill off the bentgrass, but it will also kill the desired grasses, so only spray where the bentgrass is growing. You should spray about 6 inches beyond the patches to make sure you control the stolons, or above-ground runners, that may spread out into the lawn, but are often not visible. It will require two applications. Once the grasses die, you can either reseed or re-sod the spots. The best time to use Round-Up is when the grass is actively growing and not under heat or drought stress.

The second method is to use a product called Tenacity.

You can do a search on the product and find many sources that sell it. This is a selective product that will control the bentgrass without harming your desired grasses. The best time to start this process is in mid-July, and it requires three applications, spaced two weeks apart, to achieve complete control. Once Tenacity is applied to the lawn, the bentgrass will turn bright white and be very noticeable, so be prepared that this will happen. Once the bentgrass is controlled, you can reseed the lawn. The easiest way to do so is to core aerate the lawn first and then broadcast seed across the lawn. Be sure to read and follow the label directions before using the product. By the way, one 8 ounce bottle of Tenacity will cover an acre of property, so you probably will not need more than 8 ounces.

The third option is to contract with a local lawn care or landscape company that may offer one of these services.

While Tenacity will not damage your existing grasses as long as they are cool-season grasses, doing multiple applications, and then core aerating and reseeding or resodding, can be a time-consuming and frustrating process.

Do you have a question for Harold? Send him your lawn care question today!

Starting Over with Your Lawn: Reseeding and Resodding Tips

grass landscape

One of our readers was wondering how to start fresh with his lawn and landscape, so he turned to Harold Enger, our in-house expert. Read the question and answer below to get tips on reseeding or resodding for your new lawn.

“Hello Harold! I saw your video on YouTube! I bought a home recently and the lawn has Bermuda grass in patches and weeds everywhere else. I liked your idea on starting over, and I was wondering what the best process is to do so? What kind of Roundup should I use? What process is best to kill everything off and how long until I can start the reseeding process? Thank you for your help!”

Mr. Eggiman,
Thank you for sending in your question. Renovating a lawn can be a daunting task for the average homeowner, but I can provide you with the process to follow if you wish to attempt to do so on your own. First of all, you should wait until next year before starting the reseeding or resodding process. Even though you live in Nevada, your turfgrasses are moving into a dormant state. They may remain somewhat green, but they are not effectively transpiring. Trying to use a product like Roundup will not produce the best results. You should wait until the grass begins to grow next March or April. At that time, apply Roundup to the area where you wish to renovate. I suggest at least two applications of Roundup, spaced two weeks apart. Be sure to read and follow all label directions.

One of my concerns would be your ability to water the area that you will seed, sod or sprig. Keep in mind any watering restrictions you may have and limit the area to one that can easily be maintained. I have seen people that have killed off their entire lawn, but did not have the ability to consistently water and the results were miserable.

Once the undesired grasses have died, you need to make the decision on how to replace the turf. Bermuda seed is difficult to germinate and it can take two or more years to get a good stand established. Bermuda is an aggressive grass and will fill in areas quickly, but it still can take time. Once the grass has died, you should scalp the lawn to cut back as much of the top growth as possible. If you plan to seed, the best way to get the seed into the soil is to use a slit seeder. This machine will cut a thin trench into the lawn, and then the seed is deposited into the slits. You should seed in perpendicular directions for good coverage. You could use a power rake and then broadcast the seed across the lawn, but that reseeding method will not ensure the best seed to soil contact.

The fastest way to get a new lawn is to use sod. Once the grass has died off, rent a sod cutter to remove the old top growth. The difficulty with resodding is that you need some place to put the dead sod. You can rototill the area and rake out the dead grass that remains on the top, but you will still have the same clean up concern. Once the soil is prepared, you can lay out the sod. Most sod comes in 1-square-yard pieces. So, measure the area and convert the square feet into square yards by dividing it by 9 to determine the amount of sod you will need.

The one great thing about today’s world is that most of these tasks are available as YouTube videos, so I recommend you search for them. You can also click here for a more comprehensive discussion of reseeding. It may be more expensive, but hiring a qualified landscaper to do the work for you will eliminate the hard work it takes to renovate a lawn. Best of luck and feel free to contact me if you have any other questions.

If your yard needs help, get in touch with your local Spring-Green—find out more about our tree services, fertilization, and other lawn care options.

Overcoming Salt Damage: Reseeding & Weed Prevention


Overcoming Salt Damage: Reseeding & Weed Prevention
It appears that the cold weather is behind us right now, but you never know what Mother Nature has in store for us in the upcoming weeks. For right now, we are going to enjoy the warmer temperatures and hope for the best.

With the warmer temperatures, the grass is beginning to grow and trees and shrubs are waking up from their hibernation period. As this is happening, we are beginning to see how the attempts to keep streets and sidewalks passable have resulted in extensive damage to turf and landscape plants. In particular, we are seeing the effects of salt damage over the winter.

Normal spring rains will help to wash the salt into the soil and reduce its effects on the grass, but in many cases, some reseeding or resodding will have to be completed for preliminary weed prevention. If these areas are not repaired, they are prime sites for weeds to germinate and grow. Weeds are more adapted to survive in soil conditions that won’t support good turf growth, so early weed prevention is crucial.

What about Plants That Have Been Damaged by Salt?

Reseeding a strip along a sidewalk or driveway is a good deal easier than trying to help a landscape plant recover from salt damage. In the picture above you will see some Euonymus that was heavily damaged by salt. There was a good deal of snow that fell in northern Illinois this winter. As soon as you cleared away the snow from one snowfall, another would quickly cover everything up again. When that snow was removed, salt that had been spread on the sidewalk was scooped up along with the new snow and moved off the sidewalks. This salt and snow mix was piled on throughout the winter, forming larger and larger piles. As this salty mixture melted, it drew out the moisture from the leaves, resulting in some badly damaged leaves. It will take some time to determine the extent of the damage.

Should I Cover My Landscape Plants with Burlap?

Many people and municipalities use burlap to protect their plants from salt damage during the winter, and this is a good idea. Unfortunately, it may be too late for these plants. I will watch these plants and monitor their recovery. As I said, it is too early to tell the extent of the damage, so all I can do is hope for the best.

What to Do First: Reseeding or Top Dressing? – Spring-Green Lawn Care Tips

On Page Auger

Lawn Care Tips: Reseeding and Top Dressing

The following is a question-and-answer exchange between a homeowner and Harold Enger, the Director of Education at Spring-Green. Harold provides some expert tips on two important lawn care practices—reseeding and top dressing—and stresses the importance of doing them in the right order. He also addresses the best time to weed and feed.


“I planted about an acre of grass last spring. It has come in nicely, however, I do have a question. I would like to reseed and top dress the entire area. I would also like to “weed and feed”. Which should I do first and how long do I wait in between?”


Mr. Campbell,
Thank you for sending in your question. I am glad to read that you had good success in your seeding efforts last year. Top dressing is a good idea, especially if you have areas that have eroded or sunken over the last year. A good way to incorporate new seed into an existing lawn is to first core aerate the lawn. This will help to relieve any compaction issues, and it will also provide a good site for the seed to germinate. After aerating, it’s time for top dressing: spread either pulverized top soil or a good quality humus compost across the lawn. You don’t need much—about a quarter inch or so is adequate. Then, go ahead and reseed. Be sure to invest some money in the seed and get good quality, weed-free seed. There are numerous blends available. I am assuming that you used a bluegrass/ryegrass blend. I suggest that you use a mix of 20% bluegrass and 80% perennial ryegrass. The reason why I suggest more ryegrass is that it germinates in 5 to 7 days, whereas bluegrass takes 28 days to germinate. It is difficult for most homeowners to maintain adequate watering for 28 days unless they have a sprinkler system.

You will not be able to apply conventional crabgrass control products before or after reseeding, as they will prevent your new seed from germinating. In regards to broadleaf weeds, like dandelions and clover, you need to wait until the grass has germinated and has been mowed three times before applying that type of product. I do suggest you apply a fertilizer after seeding. I suggest you look for a product with an analysis of 14-14-14 or similar and supply about .75 to 1 pound of Nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. For that product, in a 50-lb. bag, you would apply about 5 to 6 pounds of product per 1,000 sq. ft. If your lawn area is an acre, then you would purchase between 5 and 6 50-lb. bags of a 14-14-14.

Looking for some additional lawn care tips?
You can ask Harold a question directly on his Ask the Expert blog.